Blogofficer Anobella

"As a boy his happiness had been bound up in the ocean, the regular rising and curling of waves over sandbanks and reefs, the baking sun, the cronies lounging against the promenade, the bunches of girls gossiping and flirting on the sand, the violent contrasting physical pleasures of bodysurfing. In his twenties and early thirties he had stilll never tired of watching the surf. Like flames it had the capacity to induce a calming trance. It held in store everything from a domestic weekend, healthy dawm exercise, to a snappy hangover cure. But over the past few years, through work and travel and the particular strangely inevitable manner in which his marriage had frayed, then unravelled, he´d lost the habit of peculiarly satiating Australien days."

Robert Drewe, The Bodysurfers, Sydney 1983